Sunday 30 November 2014

Making a lot size for preparation or dyeing:

Grey stage fabric usually 60-70 m in length so that  several pieces are stitched together to make a processable length ( Lot size ).  Normally Polyester (Sewing thread ) yarn is used for stitching. Marked each piece properly for sort number, lot number etc. so that pieces can be identify at any stage of the processing. Two pieces are arranged selvedge to selvedge and the ends are stiched on a special end to end stitching machine so that pieces are joined without overlapping: Some of the important poits are given below:

         Cotton threads: 3/40s, 4/30s, 4/36s, 6/28s and 6/36s are popular
         Polyester threads are also used when carbonising is required
    Stitches per inches:  6 to 7 for coarse, 7 to 8 for poplin and 8 to 10 for cambric


Stitching defects: Stitching defects are described below:

i)  Protruding Selvedge: It mostly occurs due to difference in width of the pieces. Some time careless handling also lead to a protruding selvedge.



It Causes: Fold or selvedge crease and the fold portion either less dyed or       remain undyed

ii)  Open End: Pieces are not locked in the stitch at and near the selvedge and due to careless handling.

It Causes: Such stitch will open out more and more every pull around guide roll during processing. It may induce Fold or crease formation at the selvedge, undyed/unprinted folds will result.

iii) Loose Thread: It occurs due to careless handling of stitching process.

It Causes: It may cause thread mark in dyeing and printing, lead entanglement in machine parts, etc. The loose thread may pick up soil and damage long lengths

iv) Fold: If the large folds are inserted in the stitch to accommodate width difference of two pieces, it will surely lead to damage


It Causes: It may cause warp stripes in dyeing and creases in dyeing and printing

v)Broken Stitch: It may be due to poor machine condition, poor quality of thread or poor method of operation.


It Causes: It may cause damage in dyeing and printing


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